After we ate our way through Rome (you can read more about those culinary pursuits here), we made our way via high speed train to Naples then on to the Amalfi Coast. The food on the coast is very much dictated by what’s available to eat locally – fresh fish from the neighboring sea, lemons from one of the many blossoming lemon groves, and local produce. If you’re a seafood lover – you will gobble up enthusiastically every single meal. I’ve included almost everything we ate minus a jar of nutella (or two) that I may have consumed all by my lonesome. So grab a slice, down a shot of limoncello, and dig in.
After a long day of cab ride, train ride, then another cab twisting over the craggy cliffs, we finally arrived in Praiano. We had made no plans on arrival day, instead deciding to leisurely sink into coastal life. Our only appointment was a dinner reservation at the Trip Advisor approved Locanda Costa Diva. Nestled underneath a lemon grove dangling above the sea, Costa Diva is a dream for any seafood fan. Like most meals in Italy, we didn’t stop at one course, enjoying appetizers of shrimp, calamari and mussels, then moved on to the main course – pasta with tomatoes and prawns for me. European shrimp, I’ll warn you, comes fully body and head on – and I was not expecting my shrimp to look quite so fresh (aka alive)! The pasta was still lovely, and we finished off the meal with chocolate cake and shots of limoncello. To aid with digestion of course 😉
So beautiful. Definitely recommend this spot for a romantic evening.
Appetizers (these were good, but not earth shattering).
Yummy pasta. I picked around the shrimp – the heads freaked me out!
Unlike our first day, our second day on the coast was jammed-pack. We chartered a boat to Capri (full post on that experience to follow), and spend the majority of the day wandering the island then sailing around its grottos and coves, only taking a break to slip into the perfectly turquoise water. Lunch was in Anacapri at a random street cafe (sorry can’t remember the name!). I wasn’t expecting much, and maybe it was my hunger, but the pizza with prosciutto was actually quite yummy. From Anacapri, we wandered back down to Capri, and enjoyed Straciatella gelato, that’s chocolate chip for you fellow yanks, while overlooking the busy harbor below.
Gelato at Bar Funicolare
. Easy and yummy cafe right in the center of Capri. Italian fast food at its finest.
When we finally arrived back in Praiano several hours later, we were properly sun kissed, sleepy, and ready for sustenance. Beat after a long day in the sun, we decided to stay close to home and try our hotel’s restaurant, Ristorante Mama.
Weirdo that I am, I was craving red meat. Even though we were in fish central, I ordered a juicy steak, enjoyed after complimentary fried risotto. Not really taking advantage of seaside flavors, but delicious nonetheless.
While my dad and brother stayed to chill at the hotel, my mom and I spent the morning exploring Positano and gleefully bringing business to the shops. I’ll talk more about that day later, but needless to say, climbing up and down the hills and spending all that money left us famished. As soon as we arrived back at dreamy Hotel Margherita, I inhaled spaghetti via room service, all while taking in the afternoon sun and passing yachts on our balcony.
After properly freshening up in the pool, we made the trek up the mountains to neighboring Ravello. We fiddled about the popular ceramic shops, and I may have tripped over a basket of ceramic knick knacks and broken one or two eek! On the lam from the shop owner, we found our way to one of my favorite restaurants on the trip – Cumpa Cosimo
. Unassuming in a dark back street, the restaurant is spartan, but the food more than makes up for the lack of elegance. Following recommendations from our waiter, we tried fresh antipasti, bolognese, and the best veal marsala I’ve ever had. I still dream of this damn marsala. Finished off, of course, with tiramisu. If you’re nearby, you must make the trip to Ravello and go!
I have never been a veggie lover, but these may have made me a convert.
Marsala of dreams.
You can read about my unforgettable tripe to Arienzo Beach
in this post
, but the fab beachside lunch is worth mentioning again. Pasta with mussels and clams paired with a watermelon mojito – all overlooking an orange umbrella dotted paradise? Yes please!
Dinner, sadly our last one of the trip, was back in Positano at Da Vincenzo
. Our guide of our Eating Italy tour in Rome highly recommended the joint, and it definitely lived up to expectations. We zipped over in the orange bus from Praiano and were let off on one of the winding Positano cobblestone streets. Sadly, no breathtaking views of the pastel buildings lining the harbor, but the fare was still excellent. Appetizers were stuffed peppers, and they were good but not really my jam per se. I was quickly revived, however, with the arrival of my rigatoni ragu. Hummina hummina. All finished with the required chocolate cake and shot of espresso.
After cleaning our plates, no licking was involved I swear, we ran down the hills of Positano to catch our bus back to sleepy Praiano. I really did not want the magic of Italy to end, especially the culinary parade of delights.
Check out more of my Italy posts: